August 18, 2011

Why you should work out in the mornings.

by Brandon Alsups

Working out in the mornings has it’s benefits beyond your basic health and fitness. Most notably it allows you to more easily and less shamefully have a post-work evening cocktail.

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My drink this evening is the Red Hook. First introduced to me by a friendly bartender at Cafe Atlantico in D.C. I must warn you, I have never had a bartender know this drink outside of Cafe Atlantico (now called America Eats), but have embarrassed myself several times asking. I do know Red Hook is also a neighborhood within Brooklyn. However, I know very little about NYC having never been there and there is not much out there on the origins of the Red Hook. It appears to have been developed in 2005 by a bartender, Enzo Errico, at the Milk and Honey.

Either way, I love this This take on a Brooklyn. For the most part a Red Hook replaces the dry vermouth and Amer Picon with Punt e Mes, a kind of sweet vermouth. Here is more or less what you will need.

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To make add to a shaker 2 parts rye whiskey, 1/2 part Punt e Mes, and 1/4 part luxardo, a type of maraschino liquor.

Add ice and stir. I will generally let it sit for about 30 seconds for some more ice to melt. Then strain into a chilled martini glass. Or in this case over a couple rocks.

What is your go to drink after work? Is it just beer or do you ever need anything stiffer?

August 10, 2011

Rainbow Chard

by kellyalsup

This summer Brandon and I joined a CSA. CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture. The idea behind joining one is to pay an annual fee and receive locally grown, organic vegetables. We joined the Sandy Spring CSA and pick up our box every Wednesday. It has helped us try things that we normally wouldn’t purchase, like kale and swiss chard.

During June and July we received a lot of rainbow chard. It looks just like swiss chard, except the stems are vibrant colors of yellow, pink, red, purple and orange. We didn’t know how to prepare the chard so we googled and found a great recipe that some other bloggers, The Bitten Word, tried from a magazine.

After washing the chard and drying it in our salad spinner, I cut out the stems. Then I cut the stems into 1/2 inch pieces and cut the leaves into bit-size pieces. I sautéed the stems with some garlic and let them cook on medium-high heat for several minutes. After using this recipe several times, I learned the longer I let the stems cook, the better and sweeter they tasted!

Next, I added the leaves to the stems for just a minute or so, until the leaves wilted. To serve, I layered the chard with homegrown basil, toasted pine nuts and parmesan.

It was so easy to make and really flavorful! I can’t wait until we can have a large garden and grow our own rainbow chard.

August 8, 2011

It’s Not Ice Cream, It’s Custard!

by kellyalsup

So for my very first post (not as Brandon’s editor and contributor) I decided to go with something near and dear to my heart- ice cream! I have always loved ice cream. I remember living right behind Robert’s Drive In and riding my bike over with my sister to get a hot fudge sunday. Or after playing a softball game in the summer, Coolies would give a free cone to the winning team. Or going to Ollie’s after Church on Sundays with my family for “lunch”. I could probably eat ice cream at every meal and be quite happy, but there is this thing called the food pyramid or whatever it is called now, so I will start adding fruit and nuts to my ice cream to make it “healthy”.

For our anniversary, Brandon got me a book called The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz. It is filled with great pictures and many recipes for your standard ice cream flavors like vanilla and strawberry ice cream and some unpopular ones like green pea ice cream or goat cheese ice cream. It also has great tips on how to properly cook your custard or ice cream and special toppings or additions for your dessert.

So what is the difference between ice cream and custard? Both are made with milk or cream and sugar, but custard uses egg yolks that help to emulsify the ingredients, making the custard richer, creamier, and smoother. Since egg yolks are used, you to have to cook the egg yolks first to make sure the ice cream is safe to eat.

My first recipe I made was Toasted Almond and Candied Cherry Ice Cream with Fudge Ripple. Intense sounding? Yes, but delicious? Absolutely! And it hits a couple areas of that food pyramid with the cherries for fruit, ice cream as dairy, and nuts as meat/beans/nuts category. So healthy? Sure!

First, I made the candied cherries by using fresh cherries and taking their pit out. Now we have a lot of kitchen tools, but one thing we don’t have is a cherry pitter. (Hint hint family–Christmas is coming!) So I used a frosting tip to push through the cherry and remove the pit. Then I cooked the cherries down in a sugary syrup. Saving the leftover syrup made great kiddie cocktails while we waited for the ice cream to churn!

Second, I had to seep almonds in the cream and milk.

Third, I made the fudge ripple sauce. We used the leftover cherries and fudge ripple to make lunch- chocolate covered cherries!

Next was to cook the egg yolks and slowly incorporate them into the cream, milk, and sugar without curdling the eggs. You do this with a technique called tempering. Tempering is done here by slowly adding a few spoonfuls of the warm milk to the eggs and constantly whisking. Keep adding the milk until the eggs are lighter in color and warmed. Then add the egg mixture into the remaining milk, constantly stirring. This is where the eggs get cooked.  The custard is cooked until the back of the spoon is nappe. Nappe is when you dip the spoon into the custard, run your finger over the spoon, and the liquid does not run into your finger mark.

A great tip, learned from Alton Brown, was to add no more than 3 tablespoons of a liquor to custard before freezing. The alcohol prevents the custard from becoming crystalized in the freezer, and adds just a hint of flavor. We used an almond liquor.

One great tip this book taught me was how to quickly cool the custard. In the past, I just put the custard into a bowl and refrigerated overnight. Lebovitz suggests putting the custard into a zip top bag and putting the bag in an ice bath for a few hours. This worked amazingly and the bag provided an easier way of dispensing the custard into the machine. All we had to do now was wait for the custard to churn!

To assemble, we added toasted almonds to the machine when there was only a few minutes left. Once we turned the machine off, we mixed in the cherries. Then we layered in a container the fudge ripple and almond-cherry ice cream. Ice cream machines make very soft ice cream. With all of the ingredients we added to our custard, we gave it an hour in the freezer to harden up some. Then it was time to serve!

Brandon’s contribution was to pour us up the last of our almond tequila from our honeymoon in Puerto Vallarta. A perfect accompaniment!

This ice cream didn’t last long in our freezer and I am sure that I will be making it again, especially in the summer with fresh cherries!

July 31, 2011

Grilled branzino tacos.

by Brandon Alsups

It has been hot in D.C. Doesn’t really bother me too much on the weekends though. As long as I don’t have to wear work clothes, I could care less about a little sweat. This particular afternoon Kelly and I were in the mood for some grilling.

Grilled fish may be one of my favorite things in the world. It is much easier than you think. Sure, you can do the salmon on cedar planks or swordfish steaks, and as good as those can be, they are just not that interesting to me. Instead, head to the store and buy whatever whole fish they are selling.

This weekend we took a warm drive to River Falls fish market in Potomac. As a side note, I say warm because I wanted to listen to country music for the ride and country music should be listened to outside or windows down whenever possible. Of course this always leads to deep discussion between Kelly and I as to whether we should have the windows down or a/c on.

Back to the topic at hand. The only whole fish they had was some branzino, also called European seabass, a fish that can be found throughout the Mediterranean and as far north as England. If branzino is unavailable many fish mongers will carry whole trout or snapper which works just as well.

Whole fish will often come ungutted and unscaled. Don’t be afraid to ask the fish monger to gut and scale. However, if you are interested in doing it yourself it is very easy. To gut the fish I start with a shallow cut just under it’s head and continue until your reach the pectoral fins (or where you imagine is the start of their tale). After making the cut dig your hand into the gut and pull out all of the goodies. Use a knife to separate any tough spots and keep going until the gut is as clean as you think it should be.

Scaling a fish is just as easy. Simply grab a knife and start scraping with the edge of the knife from head to tail. Warning, this will make a mess.

When you are done with both of these tasks be sure to rinse the fish inside and out with cold water and dry thoroughly with paper towels.

Lastly use your paring knife to cut three or four deep diagonal cuts along the sides of the fish. This will help it cook faster and will make it easer to serve when it is done. We oil our fish and salt it very generously. You can also stuff the cavity with aromatic herbs and citrus if you wish. For this meal I used some leftover cilantro and limes we had laying around.

To grill, just set on the preheated grill. The fish will take about ten to fifteen minutes total depending on the size of the fish. It is important to only flip the fish once. Make sure the one side is done enough to flip. It is very difficult to flip back and finish a prematurely flipped side. No matter how much you oil it, the fish will stick. Don’t fret. Just try you best to save as much skin as possible. It will taste great anyway.

When finished simply place on on a communal platter and everyone can scrape off as much flesh as they want.

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Our game plan for this meal is a pretty common one for Kelly and I. Make a salad, drinks, and an entrée that you can share amoung the table. Add a pile of tortillas and you have a mexican summer meal.

We garnish our tacos as simply as possible. A squirt of lime, dash of cilantro, and some red onions. For the red onions, thinly slice the onions and marinate as long as possible in some red wine vinegar. At least 3 hours is best in our experience.

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I always feel the sign of a good meal is at the end, there is a bare animal carcass on a plate. Mission accomplished.

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This particular meal also included a tomato and watermelon salad.

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Let’s not forget about dessert. Grilled sweetcorn.

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That was our Saturday meal. What is your favorite lounge around and grill meal? Have any good experiences grilling fish?

July 29, 2011

Another camping post. Campfire kabobs.

by Brandon Alsups

I wanted to share another camping meal Kelly and I made.  Not nearly as extravagant as paella on the campfire, but still quite a tasty meal and real easy to do camping.  As a bonus we were able to source more than half of our ingredients from our CSA box!

Kabobs are a great camping meal.  Similar to the paella though, to do over the fire, you need to work on creating some good coals.  Start the fire hours before you intend on cooking to make sure you have plenty of hot coals to cook with.

We were able to use some new skewers we purchased recently and they worked great.  These particular skewers are put out by Steven Raichlen.  If anyone doesn’t recognize Steven’s name, you should.  He has written several books on BBQ’n and is the host of Primal Grill on PBS.  He is one of the most respected BBQ expert in the country.  Brandon Henak swears by his books.

I’m really quite proud of my set up here.  We bought two metal polls from Home Depot and laid them across two logs we set up on each side of the fire.   This worked really well and allowed us to avoid using the built in grill grate at the campsite.

Another thing I love to do is to put only one type of food on a skewer.  Sure it is nice for everyone to have their own compartmentalized BBQ skewer, but it is just not the best way to cook them.  The fact is a mushroom cooks differently than a pepper, and a pepper different than beef.  By making specialized skewers you can flip and control how each different item is cooked.  In the end we just push each skewer into into a bowl (sometimes into a bowl of couscous).

I don’t want you all to get the wrong impression.  We do cook a lot while camping, but we do get out and enjoy the outdoors.  This trip we made the hike to hightop mountain summit.  After about a two mile hike uphill end at a great outlook giving you a great panorama of the Shenandoah Valley.  I think it looks like a big green blanket laying over the hills!

And of course, a photo of Kelly and I sitting on the rocks.

July 27, 2011

Final meal with Daniel in D.C.

by Brandon Alsups

Went to dinner with Daniel at Hill Country in Chinatown. Had some good BBQ and shared plenty of sides.

His company will be missed!

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Sorry for the red eye.

July 23, 2011

The Henaks’ Quick Bites

by Brandon Henak

Hello El Plato de Gallo readers!

My name is Brandon Henak (another Brandon just to confuse you) and I am excited to add a few of my delicious experiments to the stream of posts here. As you’ll quickly see, my biggest food passion is anything made on a grill. My wife Allie and I work together on most meals and we have long enjoyed the Alsup’s cooking so we are looking forward to sharing with all of you.

Most of my posts will be shorter in nature, I’ll try to just share a few pictures and my thoughts/basic ingredients. Please leave a comment or two on the format and let me know what you would like to see more or less of, it’s a conversation starter!

Until next time Gallos!
Brandon

July 23, 2011

Paella over the campfire.

by Brandon Alsups

Sorry for the delay.  Had a very busy spring.  And although our summer has continued to be busy, I have been craving publishing a post.  Luckily, I have some great material.

It has become a bit of a tradition between Kelly and I to go camping over our anniversary.  Or near it.  This year our anniversary landed on a Tuesday.  But like the prior two years, we packed up and went camping.  He hit up our favorite camping place out here, Shenandoah National Park.

The best part of camping for Kelly and I is cooking.  And we really hit one out of the park this past weekend.

We have made paella at home several times but never attempted it why camping.  Why?  I am not sure.  All I know is that I now regret every other meal we have made while camping prior to trying to make paella.

With any campfire cooking you first have to start a fire.  Since our Saturday day hike was shorter than normal we decided to start a fire the old fashion way.  Like real old school.  You can see Kelly here with a flint and steal (which was an anniversary gift!).

With a little help and some TLC we eventually had a perfect fire for cooking our paella.  A note for anyone who is cooking over a campfire.  A good camping fire takes time.  This one below is 3 hours in.  You need large, hardwood pieces of wood and you need to go through several burnings to get a nice layer of coals.  The fire below isn’t quite ready, but about 30 minutes after this photo it was.

While the fire did its magic Kelly and I got to work in our camp kitchen.  This meal required no use of the camp stove.  Which is always a plus.  Not that we dislike using the camp stove, it has made some camping trips much more bearable, but not using the camp stove just feels more authentic.

A note on paella rice.  It can be hard to fine.  You want Bomba rice.  The once place that never fails to come through for us is Williams-Sonoma.  Although a bit on the pricey side, it is very much worth it.

This paella did not have a lot of veggies.  Just leeks, lots of leeks.  One item we couldn’t find before we left was Spanish chorizo.  We substituted Mexican chorizo.  If you have ever had Spanish v. Mexican chorizo you know there is quite a difference.  Mexican chorizo as you can see below doesn’t really hold its shape and has a very strong flavor that is distantly Mexican.  You can use just about any kind of sausage in paella and although this mexican chorizo was not perfect, it still worked well.

Since we were camping and cooler space is often a premium (mostly we need ice space for cocktails!) we opted for a more simple paella.  Our only seafood ingredients were cod and shrimp.  We froze both solid before going camping to ensure they would keep the one day in the cooler before being cooked.  Both came out perfectly thawed and cool.

We use shrimp with shells on.  We like this for two reason.  The shells seem to give a cook a little more flexibility in cook time and what I think is more important, the shell adds flavor to the stock paella in general.

A note on the stock.  We did not make seafood stock while camping but instead opted to make our own stock with water and seafood base.  The seafood base was purchased from Penzy’s spices here in Rockville, MD and you add about one teaspoon for every cup of water.   Bonus points that Penzy’s is from Milwaukee.  I would say that one of our largest joys after moving to Maryland was discovering that Penzy’s had a shop out here.  It is like a taste of Milwaukee in Maryland.

Once you have everything in place for the paella, the hard part begins.  Not touching the paella.  You don’t touch it.  Don’t stir it, don’t poke it, don’t talk rude to it, and don’t even think about scraping it.  All you do is rotate it every few minutes (gently!)

The reason being a good paella has what is called socarrat.  In essence a crust on the bottom.  Ours didn’t get a great crust, but it was good anyway.

Of course if you don’t have sangria, beer is a great compliment with paella.

I love this photo because it looks like we finished it!  We didn’t.  Between two of us, we would have been sick had we ate that much paella.  A glorious sickness, but sickness nonetheless.  We took half of this home and had it for dinner Saturday night.  When camping, always bring tupperware!

This is good and I won’t be surprised if we make paella almost every time we go camping.

May 14, 2011

Be back soon…

by Brandon Alsups

Sorry for not posting anything since February.  We’ve just got in the groove of being  busy!  No problem, we still update you all with our adventures (Travel, food and otherwise) in another convient place.  Flicker!

Check us out at:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kellyandbrandon/

We update this much more frequently and you still have the ability to comment, ask questions, or make fun of Kelly.  Not me though.

So please, check out our flickr site and revisit and lets us know what you think!

March 13, 2011

Sweetbreads, Brains, and Aspic: #21, 178, 179, 190

by Brandon Alsups

What on earth could cause such a face?  Maybe I surprised her with a camera moments after a sneeze?  Maybe someone told an inappropriate joke?  Maybe it has to do with a bodily function?

Well it is none of the above.  My mom is not laughing because she is particularly happy, although I assume she is in a constant state of euphoria whenever her wonderful son is around.  No she is laughing to cover up the awkwardness of eating animal parts not commonly enjoyed by westerners.

Brains and sweetbreads.  Veal brains and sweetbreads to be exact.  Over the Christmas holiday I (with the help of Ed the Father-in-law/Butcher) was able to tackle techniques: 190-Sweetbread Terrine, 178-Sweetbreads, 179-Brains, and 21-Aspic.

I’m sure you are all aware of what brains are.  They are indeed the same as the human brain, except out of the animal.

Now sweetbreads are a little different.  They can be either the Thymus gland or the Pancreas.  According to Father-in-law the butcher, these are thymus glands.  Couldn’t you tell?

Above is a picture sort of mid-preparation.  At that point the brains had been blanched and the sweetbreads blanched and pressed overnight.

This is the raw sweetbread with a membrane that had to be remove.

The brains had no membrane and were very loose as we took them out of their vacuum seal.  We immediately put them right into a water-bath to rinse them.

We made three separate recipes with the two ingredients.  The most involved was a sweetbread terrine.  Named after the dish it is made in, a terrine is a “forcemeat” charcuterie technique.  And like any good food technique was developed and perfected by the French.  You may remember our other foray into charcuterie with the duck breast prosciutto.  Most of these techniques are developed to use less wanted cuts of meat and to create dishes that keep really well.

But first we needed some other ingredients to make the terrine.  Most uncommon would be lard leaf (above).  Since we didn’t have lard leaf we used some thinly sliced strips of belly fat Ed trimmed before making his bacon.

Also needed some filler.  For that I procured some pork scraps & lard (from the aforementioned pork belly) and some chunks of veal.

One item I’ve never made before was beef aspic.  To make the aspic I took some beef stock (unfortunately I did not have homemade beefstock.  There was no time to make it) and turned it into a consomme.   This involved boiling the stock with some lean beef and vegetables then finely strain to create a smooth rich stock much stronger than your basic stock.  To turn the stock into an aspic you need to add gelatin.  After adding the gelatin and sitting over night you have a beef Jello.  Sounds great doesn’t it?  It is.  The aspic can be used as a filler for various molded dishes.  After it is added and the dish cools the aspic fills any void as it re-solidifies.

The meat scraps I procured from the shop were then made into a stuffing.  The stuffing was not anything special and included your basic herbs, meat, eggs.  However, one ingredient that most people unaware of was pink salt.  You can see it in the upper left of the above photo.  Called pink salt because it is well pink, pink salt contains sodium nitrite.  Sodium nitrite is poisonous and it does not take much to kill you.  That is why the salt is dyed pink.  and the little teaspoon you see above is really 94% salt.  The sodium nitrite does not add any flavor or change any texture, but instead preserves color.  Ever wonder why your corned beef is a beautiful red or your salami a dark maroon?  You guessed it.  Sodium nitrite.  Looks are important in food.

To prepare the terrine we lined our “terrines” with the lard leaf and then began to build the stuffing.  I could not convince the wife to let my purchase a terrine for this unknown experiment so we were forced to utilize a disposable loaf pan (a smaller sized one, about 8 inches).  The stuffing just alternated the forcemeat mixture of pork and veal and then chunks of boiled sweetbreads.  When finished the lard leaf is fold over and it goes in the oven for a slow and low bake.  When it is closed to finished you start eating up some aspic in a pan to melt it back into a liquid.  The aspic is then poured into the terrine and the terrine is left to cool overnight.

Served cold and with a piece of baguette, this was pretty good.  I will likely venture into the terrine world again.  We even saved some and served it at our NYE dinner party.

The other method we used on the sweetbreads was much simpler.  Breaded and fried.  These were good too.  Although a little chewy, I think that I can prefect it with a couple more tries.  I later tried some fried sweetbreads at Brasserie Beck in D.C. and they were great!  Super tender, so I know they have potential.

The brains were also simple to prepare.  They firmed up quite a bit after the initial blanch.  I then floured and and fried in black butter.  Topped off with capers and some vinegar. The brains were the most usual.  And they did not taste bad but the texture was unlike any other meat I’ve tried.  Very Very soft, some would say mushy.  Oddly, Kelly really liked the brains and had seconds.

But we also made her try them first!

What is the weirdest meat you have tried or prepared?

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